Why is my yamaha blaster smoking




















You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Existing user? Facebook Twitter. Blaster smoking like cheech and chong! Share More sharing options Followers 0. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Posted July 26, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options Oil is leaking passed the seal.

Help please? Results 1 to 7 of 7. Thread: Yamaha Blaster lots of white smoke and sluggish power? Hey guys. My buddy's Yamaha Blaster is causing problems. We put a brand new top end on it. Now it runs, but it smokes a TON of white smoke and the power is very sluggish. I've heard it might be crank seals, but we already replaced the main one. Is there multiple ones?

Is this for sure our problem? Not steady power. Any ideas on the setting the setting for the carb? I put a new spark plug in and the old one did seem pretty dark and sooty. I checked the gap on new one and installed. Went for a ride and it didn't seem any different. Any suggestions would be great.. Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!

Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co. Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional for long.

Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads! Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it.

The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes.

Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles. PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much.

And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged. So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery.

Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing.

Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. Then nothing again.

Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good.

Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb! So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do.

That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins.

Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it.

Safety first, amirite? First fire up - lots of smoke While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little.

Testing reverse Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire Dog under the tire.

I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues. Made sure it would start again after turning it off. Long Live The King All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet it came with a installed, which I swapped out for the OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but seems like a big jump.

I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week.



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