Question 2. Give them a small amount of food twice a day. Space the meals out so you're feeding them once in the morning and once in the evening. Ideally, you should only give your fish as much food as they can eat in about two minutes. If there's any food left over after that, remove it from the tank with a net, and give them a little less food at the next meal. If they overeat, Fantails can get digestive problems that can be really dangerous.
Question 3. Choose a 20—30 US gal 76— L tank for a single goldfish. The smallest tank you can use for a goldfish is 10 US gal 38 l. They'll do better in a larger tank, though, and it will be easier to keep clean. Add an extra 10 US gal 38 l for every additional fish you'll have in the tank. Question 4. Set up a fish tank with a filter and a light. In general, goldfish create a lot of waste, so a filter is an absolute necessity for your fish tank.
Otherwise, ammonia and nitrates will build up in the water, creating an unhealthy environment for your Fantail. If you're planning to include aquarium plants—or if you just want to illuminate your tank—add a lighting rig, as well. Use soft sand as your substrate. Fantails are delicate and they like to dig, so choose a soft substance like sand as your substrate. Rough grains or sharp gravel could easily scratch them, and those injuries could make your fish more susceptible to disease.
Add a few plants and smooth decorations. Fantails love to explore their environment, and they also need a place to hide if they get a little nervous. Live plants like Hornwort make the best decoration for their tank—you can either plant them in the substrate or let them float on top of the water, as long as you don't cover either the top or bottom of the tank completely.
However, only include items that are intended to be used in an aquarium. Otherwise, they could contain chemicals or bacteria that could make your fish sick. Question 5. Yes, but it has to be de-chlorinated first. Tap water is treated with chlorine to kill bacteria—and while it's safe for people, it's pretty dangerous to fish.
Luckily, it's easy to treat. Just pick up some de-chlorinator at your local aquarium supply store or pet shop, then follow the directions on the label for how to use it. If you prefer not to use chemicals, let the water sit in an open container for hours before you add it to the tank.
If you're in a hurry, you can boil the water for minutes first, but be sure to let the water cool all the way down to room temperature before you transfer it to the tank. Question 6. Only if you live in a really cold climate.
Conveniently, this is about room temperature in most homes. However, if you live somewhere where the temperature can suddenly drop dramatically, it might be a good idea to get an aquarium heater so you can keep the temperature steady year-round. Question 7. Place the fish and its bag in the tank for 20 minutes. That will gradually bring the water inside the bag to the same temperature as the tank, so your fish won't be as stressed when you take them out of the bag.
Then, add a little of the water from the tank into the bag, and wait another 10 minutes so your fish can get acclimated to the water change. Finally, open the bag inside the fish tank and let the fish swim out. Question 8. Scoop out uneaten food after each feeding. If you overfeed your fish, the uneaten food will dissolve in the tank.
Not only can that release toxins into the tank, but it could also promote the growth of bacteria that could make your Fantail sick.
To avoid that, use a net to scoop out any extra food at least once a day—although it's better to do it after every feeding. Fantails might look elegant, but they have a tendency to be pretty messy. Just remember to use de-chlorinating drops if you get the water from the tap.
Before you add the replacement water, let it sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes so it will be the same temperature as the water in the tank. Monitor the pH and chemical levels between cleanings. Use an aquarium test kit to keep an eye on the pH level of your aquarium—it should always stay between 6. Try testing the water about once a week to make sure it stays in that range. If it gets too high or low, it could make your fish sick. If it gets too high alkaline , add peat moss to your filter or place driftwood in the tank.
If they get too high, change the water more often. Question 9. Fantails usually live about years. However, if you take good care of them, they might even live for up to 15 or 20 years!
If you keep your fish tank clean and feed your Fantails a high-quality diet, they're more likely to live a long time. However, they do sometimes develop health problems, even under the best of care, so don't blame yourself if your Fantail doesn't live quite that long. Question Apart from the Snares Islands, fantails are not found on our subantarctic islands, nor on the Kermadecs. The average fantail territory is less than a hectare in area and surrounded by a substantial buffer zone.
Birds may disappear from an area for a time and then return a few seasons later. In one 40 ha block I monitor, the number of breeding pairs in September varies between 5 and 12, and does not seem to be directly related to breeding success or failure in the previous season. A reliable water supply in a territory is an asset. Fantails enjoy water, bathing and washing regularly and vigorously all year round.
You can readily attract fantails to your garden with a bird bath. During dry weather, they are drawn irresistibly by the sound of water, whether garden sprinkler, dripping tap or babbling stream. In late autumn and early winter, groups of fantails can be seen moving beyond their usual territories. Those black individuals that straggle across Cook Strait are bullied, chased and generally harassed by the resident pied birds. New Zealand is unusual for the number of endemic birds that have a black form.
Other examples are the black robin and Snares Islands tomtit. Black fantails occur only in New Zealand. You can hear their small beaks snap shut when they have made their catch.
They also search for insects that hide in cracks or crevices in the bark on branches and tree trunks. Fantails are active from dawn to dusk. When other small bush birds have retired for the night, fantails are still busy hunting a last snack for supper.
In winter and early spring, when food is at its scarcest, they can be seen on the ground turning over leaves as their hunt becomes more desperate. Should they take large blowflies and moths, they hammer them, kingfisher style, to soften them.
Capturing insects on the wing calls for impressive flying skills—hawking, hovering, gliding, swooping, diving. Yet the birds are not always quick enough. Sometimes they may be found in groups, especially family groups. They may be only five weeks old. On the other hand, chicks from a late-season brood are often still with their parents five months later. Having been welcome for so long, these older juveniles fiercely resist their eventual expulsion.
The birds chase, threaten and click their beaks at each other, and in rare cases end up wrestling on the ground. Grasping each other with their feet, they roll around, locked together like an untidy feather ball propelled by random wing-beats. The onset of breeding varies considerably with both the year and the location. Weather also plays a part.
Rain followed by mild conditions induces early nest building, with egg laying as early as August. Continual cold wet weather delays both nest building and egg laying until mid-September. If the weather stays wet and windy, exposed nests, especially those that have not been laid in, may be abandoned. Before they start to build, both birds of a pair sit for some time at their chosen nest site in an incubating pose, sometimes side by side.
Often copulation takes place on the nest site before work starts. Nests are constructed from a range of fine Materials-dried grasses, rootlets, moss, bark fibre, small pieces of dry, rotten wood—bound together with cobwebs.
Nest linings include animal hair, tree-fern hair and seed down. Fantails sometimes thieve material from the nearby nests of other species. Once I saw a pair demolish one of their own old nests and reuse the materials. Nests are typically 3 to 5 m above the ground, usually sited at a branch fork and always protected by overhead foliage.
The work of nest building is interspersed by extended periods of feeding and courtship. The cock sings from a perch, the hen often above him.
He expands his wings horizontally and rapidly vibrates them. Often he feeds the hen before mating with her. In early spring, the time taken to build a nest is 15 to 20 days. In summer it is much shorter, usually just three or four days. If this trauma takes place at night, the nest is usually abandoned and a new one built. The fastest rebuild I have observed was 36 hours from site selection to nest completion. In this instance, only 57 hours elapsed between predation a rat ate two eggs and the first egg of the next clutch being laid in a new nest.
When nest building follows the successful fledging of a family, the hen takes seven or eight days to complete the task by herself, while her partner cares for the brood that has just fledged.
A clutch usually consists of three to five eggs, which are white with brown markings. Larger clutches are laid mid-season November and smaller clutches at the beginning and end of the season. Incubation takes 13 or 14 days. Favorites for these birds are roasted unsalted peanuts, shelled, unsalted sunflower seeds, raw sesame seeds and hemp seeds.
Seeds and nuts can be given whenever you like as a treat but shouldn't be the only staple in their diet. Feed your fantail pigeons fresh veggies such as grated carrots, garlic greens, thawed frozen peas, kale, lettuce, sprouts and spinach leaves. Enzyme-rich fruits such as papaya are also welcome treats.
Again, these can be offered as treats, but the pigeons' main diet should be commercial pigeon pellets and grains. Provide clean, fresh water at all times. Clean pigeon water sources twice daily. These are dirty birds that will foul the water quickly.
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